The Best Surf Guide: Asturias
The Natural Surfing Paradise. The definitive guide to explore the Principality’s wild waves, ancestral gastronomy and magical mountains.
“Asturias is Spain, and the rest is conquered land”. This phrase, loaded with local pride, resonates with a profound truth. To enter Asturias is to enter into a different dimension, a different “Natural Paradise” (its official slogan) (its official slogan) where the green of the mountains is not only a color, but a state of mind, and the Cantabrian Sea roars with a primal force.
For the surfer, Asturias is the diamond in the rough. With more than 300 kilometers of wild, rugged and surprisingly varied coastline, it offers an almost infinite playground. Unlike its neighbors, Asturias is not a single spot or a single beach; it is a constant adventure of exploration. It’s the place where you can surf a world-class wave in the morning, eat the best cabrales cheese in a cave at noon and walk among bears in a forest in the afternoon.
But surfing here is not understood without the culture that surrounds it. You haven’t lived Asturias until you’ve felt the ritual of the “pouring” of cider of the cider, the taste hit of a “fabada fabada or the forcefulness of a “cachopo cachopo that takes up the entire table after an epic wave session. It is a land of surfing pioneers, of villages hanging from cliffs, of millenary architecture and of a hospitality that makes you feel at home from the first “culín” of cider.
This guide of almost 10,000 words is your passport to discover it all. We’ll take you to the legendary left of Rodiles, the surfing epicenter of Salinas and the historic cradle of Tapia. But we’ll also tell you how to find your own secret cove. We’ll give you the best tips for each level, we’ll tell you where to eat, where to sleep and what to do when the sea comes to rest.
Buckle up and get your spoon ready. The journey to the heart of Asturian surfing begins now.
Index of Our Asturias Surf Guide
History of surfing in Cantabria: Pioneers and local legends
To understand why surfing in Cantabria feels so authentic, you have to travel back in time. Unlike other places, surfing did not arrive here as a tourist industry; it was a pioneering adventure, a spark of curiosity that ignited in the capital, Santander, and that would end up turning the region into the cradle of surfing in Spain.
The history of modern European surfing started, as is well known, in Biarritz. But that influence did not take long to cross the border, and Cantabria, along with Asturias and the Basque Country, was one of the first and most important nuclei where surfing germinated in our country.
The first brave ones: The era of the “Plankins” in El Sardinero.
The epicenter of this story was not a wild beach, but the most elegant and urban of all: El Sardineroin Santander. The first chronicles date back to 1961when Antonio Sáez and “Lolis they glided over the waves with “plankins”. They were not surfboards as we know them; they were planks of wood that they modified themselves: They painted them, shortened the tails and even put something like a keel on the base..
The real turning point came in 1964. The young man from Santander Jesus Fiochibrought from France the first fiber surfboard the first fiber surfboard from France to Cantabria. Fiochi was joined by a group of friends who would form the first generation of Cantabrian surfers: José Manuel Gutiérrez “Meco”, Maruri, Adolfo Gómez, Carlos Beraza, Manuel Merodio and Juan Giribet..
The photos of the time are pure European surfing history. They show these youngsters at El Sardinero, where the rowing was done kneelingThe passion was such that they were so passionate. The passion was such that Giribet created the first handmade board made in Cantabria.and the group went on to travel to the mythical Waikiki club in Biarritz to get him a Barland board. These pioneers didn’t just surf; they competed. Jesus Fiochi became third at the European Championship held in Jersey with one of these boards.
Consolidation: Competition and the creation of clubs
What began as the hobby of a few friends grew rapidly. This group was joined by a new wave of young enthusiasts, including Gonzalo “Zalo” Campa Villegaswho started surfing in 1967 in Santander.
At 1969Zalo” Campa, together with other youngsters like Yoki Parets, Luis Moruza, Pope and Tote, founded the Sardinero surf club. This club became the most popular of the three that existed in the city at the time (along with Club España and CIS) and was a fundamental driving force for the organization and expansion of the sport. Local talent soon bore fruit: Zalo Campa was proclaimed Spanish Junior Champion in 1971.. Cantabrian surfing was already a power.
Expansion along the coast: Somo, Berria and professionalization
From El Sardinero, the fans spread like wildfire all along the coast. While the area of Ribamontán al Mar (Somo and Loredo) was already an epicenter of the surfing culture since the 60’s, other beaches such as Berriain Santoña, saw the first boards arrive in the 80s. 80’s. In the beginning, Berria was a lonely place; there were no surf schools or equipment rentalOnly local surfers driven by the pure passion for surfing. Over time, word of mouth and the quality of its waves to learn consolidated it as a reference spot.
But the great modern revolution would come in the 90’s, from the hand of a young surfer and a beach: David “Capi” Garcia and the beach of Somo.
At 1991a very young “Capi” of only 16 years old only 16 years old decided to turn his passion into his profession and founded the Cantabrian School of Surfing. This was not just another school; it was the first official surf school in Spain. He began his career in a humble lifeguard hut on the beach of Somo. Those were romantic years, mixing surf lessons with guitar nights and bonfires.
At 1995The new Coastal Law forced the demolition of the beloved hut. Far from being an end, it was a new beginning. With the support of his family, “Capi” acquired a new premises on the beachfrontwhere the current school is located. This movement professionalized the teaching of surfing, improving the quality of the lessons, offering a complete surf store experience and laying the foundations of the modern surf industry in Spain.
Capi’s school also became the organizer of one of the longest running surfing championships in the country. the longest running surfing championships in the country, thethe Surf, Skate and Music Festivalwhich today is a key stop on the national circuit. This pioneering work was the germ that, over time, led the municipality of Ribamontán al Mar to bet on surfing as a hallmark of identity, culminating in the creation of the Surf Center and skate park in Somo and the designation of the area as the first surf reserve in the country.
Cantabria Surfing Competitions: Key Events and Calendar
Cantabria is not only one of the best surfing “schools” in Europe; it is also a first class battlefield. first class battlefield for surfing where champions are forged. The same consistency of waves that attracts beginners serves as the backdrop for a vibrant and diverse competition calendar ranging from local junior to international events.
The region’s competitive tradition is as old as its own surfing history. Today, that tradition is more alive than ever, and attending one of these events is one of the best ways to connect with the authentic surfing passion of “La Tierruca” and see the best national and international athletes in action.
The star event: The Cantabrian Surf School Festival
If you have to choose a date to experience surfing in Cantabria, let it be during the Cantabria Surf, Skate and Music Festival of the Cantabrian School of Surfing. This event, which is held every summer at the Somo beachis much more than a simple championship; it is a real celebration of the celebration of surfing culture..
- History and prestige: Being one of the longest running surfing events in the country, founded by the first surf school in Spain, its solera is unmatched.
- The event: For a week, the beach is transformed. It hosts crucial stops of the national leagues, such as the FESurfing League (Spanish Federation) and the Iberdrola League women, attracting the best surfers in the country.
- More than surfing: In parallel, there are held skateboard championships in the skate park of Somo and a great music festival with free concerts on a stage on the sand. The atmosphere is family friendly, festive and 100% surfing.
Key stops on the national and international circuit
The Cantabrian calendar is full of high-level events. The Cantabrian Surfing Federation organizes a very powerful regional circuit, but the region is also a fixed stop for the big leagues:
- National leagues (FESurfing): Beaches such as Ris (Noja) o Los Locos (Suances) are regular venues of qualifying events for the Spanish Championship. These events are the perfect opportunity to see the national elite fighting in high quality waves.
- WSL (World Surf League) events: Cantabria regularly hosts international events of the Qualifying Series (QS)events, such as the EDP Surf Pro Spainwhich sometimes has had a stop in Laredo. These are the events where young surfers from around the world seek the necessary points to move up to the world’s elite.
The quarry: The region pampers its future stars with powerful junior circuits, such as the. Xpeedin Prokids Surf Contest in Somo, demonstrating its commitment to the grassroots.
The big wave challenge: Santander up to the challenge
But Cantabria is not only friendly beach waves. When the Bay of Biscay really roars, the region shows its chest and celebrates the Spanish Big/Giant Wave Championships. This event has no fixed date (depending on conditions) and is held in a breathtaking spot: Cuetoon the coast of Santander. Here, the specialists in giant waves, paddling or in tow-inThe surfers face real mountains of water in a hair-raising spectacle that shows the wildest and most serious side of Cantabrian surfing.
Why choose Cantabria for your surf trip?
Wave consistency and diversity
Cantabria is a real magnet for swell magnet. Its coast, perfectly oriented to the northwest, receives the full force of the Atlantic, guaranteeing waves during most of the year. But its real treasure is the varietyin just a few kilometers you can go from a beach break kilometric, noble and perfect for maneuvering like Somoto a reef break reef break like Santa Marina, or to the wave at Los Locos in Suances, a natural coliseum that offers powerful and high quality waves. This diversity ensures that, regardless of the wind or the size of the swell, there is almost always a surfable option for each level.
The mecca of initiation and the cradle of education
If you want to learn to surf, this is your place. Cantabria, and in particular the Somo-Loredo in the municipality of Ribamontán al Mar, is considered the largest and best surfing “school” in Spain. This is not an exaggeration: the Cantabrian Surf Schoollocated in Somo, was founded in 1991 by David “Capi” García and holds the title of being the first official surf school in the country. the first official surf school in the country.. The wide beaches, the nobility of its sandy bottom waves and the professionalism of its instructors make it the idyllic place to fall in love with this sport for sure.
Sea and mountains: A unique contrast
It is the great slogan of the region and it is absolutely true. This duality is the soul of Cantabria. Nowhere else in Europe can you be surfing powerful waves in the morning and, in just over an hour’s drive, be riding the Fuente Dé cable car up the mountain to the Picos de Europaor walking through the Pasiego valleys. This unique proximity offers endless alternative plans for the days without waves or for the rest of the family, merging the culture of the sea with that of the mountains.
Genuine surf culture and cradle of pioneers
Cantabria is not a destination that joined to surfing; it is one of the places where surfing was born in Spain.. Along with the Basque Country and Asturias, its beaches were the cradle of this sport in the peninsula. The story goes back to the early 60s, when the seed planted in neighboring Biarritz germinated in the capital, Santander. It was on the elegant beach of The Sardinero where already in 1961 pioneers like Antonio Sáez and “Lolis slipped with “plankins”. The turning point came in 1964when Jesus Fiochi brought the first modern surfboard from France. He was joined by other mythical names of the first generation as “Meco” Mecolay, Maruri and Giribet, who began to slide in El Sardinero. Surfing was not an industry, it was the passion of a brave few. This pioneering spirit was consolidated with the creation of the first clubs, such as the Surf Club Sardinero in 1969founded among others by a young Zalo Campa. Therefore, surfing here is not a tourist add-on; it is part of the cultural fabric for more than half a century.
Conquering gastronomy
The reward after swimming is sublime. Cantabria is the paradise of the rabas (fried squid), the world-famous anchovies from anchovies from SantoñaThe local cuisine is also the land of the spoon, with the hearty and hearty stew, the tuna of the coast, the fresh fish of the day and the cheeses of the valleys. But it is also the land of the spoon, with the hearty mountain stewand legendary desserts that have transcended borders, such as the sobaos and quesadas. It is an honest cuisine, based on products and perfect to replenish energy.
Easy to explore
It is a single-province community, compact and very well connected. The Autovía del Cantábrico (A-8) crosses it from east to west (most of it without tolls), allowing you to change spots, from Berria a San Vicente de la Barquerain less than an hour. Its capital, Santanderis an elegant and vibrant town that serves as a perfect base camp, connected by a scenic boat service to the surfing mecca of Somo.
The essential beaches of Cantabrian surfing
The Cantabrian coast, more than 220 kilometers long, is a string of beaches, estuaries and cliffs. Each area has its own character, its star waves and its secrets.
The central coast: Santander and the Somo-Liencres axis.
This is where the most surfing activity in the region is concentrated. It is the beating heart of Cantabrian surfing, where you will find the highest concentration of schools, stores and surfers.
Somo and Loredo (Ribamontán al Mar)
- The spot: If Zarautz is the capital of Basque surfing, Somo is the undisputed capital of Cantabrian surfing. and one of the meccas of surfing in Spain. It is the epicenter of the industry, home of the first surf school in the country and part of the Spain’s first Surfing Reserve.
- The wave: We are talking about an immense beach of more than 7 kilometers of fine sand that stretches from the bay of Santander (El Puntal) to the town of Loredo. It is a beach break gigantic and very consistent, offering infinity of peaks for all tastes.
- Levels: It is the paradise for initiation. Its sandy bottoms, the absence of dangerous currents (in the central area) and its progressive and foamy waves make it perfect for learning. For intermediate and advanced surfers, with the right tide and a good swell, Somo offers high quality, fast and fun waves.
- Best conditions: Works on nearly all tides, although the rising mid-tide is usually the sweet spot. It picks up waves of almost any size. The south wind is perfect offshore, but because it is so long, you always find a more protected peak.
- Vibe: 100% surfing atmosphere all year round. In summer it is full of schools and beginners, but its size allows everyone to find their space.
- Local tip: The most mythical way to get there is in. “La Pedreñera”the small boat that crosses the bay from Santander.
El Sardinero (Santander)
- The spot: It is the urban beach of Santander and, surprisingly, the historical cradle of surfing in Cantabria. This is where pioneers like Jesús Fiochi and Zalo Campa caught the first waves in the 1960s.
- The wave: A beach break divided in two by the Piquío Gardens. It is a beach very protected from the big swells, which makes it ideal for beginners many days of the year.
- Levels: Mainly beginners and intermediate. When the sea is rough on the rest of the coast, El Sardinero “activates” and can offer very fun and quality waves, being the refuge of the surfers of the city.
- Better conditions: It needs a lot of sea to work (swell from the northwest). Works best with low or medium tide.
- Vibe: Urban and elegant atmosphere. In summer, you have to be very careful and respectful of bathers. Out of season, it is a pleasure to surf with the city as a backdrop.
Liencres Natural Park (Canallave and Valdearenas)
- The spot: For many, the crown jewel of Cantabria.. An absolutely wild natural environment, a dune system protected by a pine forest. There are no buildings here, only nature. The beach is divided in two: Canallave (smaller and rockier) and Valdearenas (a huge sandy area).
- The wave: Liencres is synonymous with power. Being very exposed, it collects all the sea that enters. They are more demanding, fast and often tubular waves that break on sandy bottom. It is one of the most consistent spots in the region.
- Levels: Intermediate and advanced. The currents here can be very strong and you need to be in good physical shape. It is not recommended for beginners when there are waves.
- Better conditions: The south wind is perfect offshore. Rising low tide usually offers the best tubes at Canallave. Valdearenas works on more tidal points.
- Vibe: Vibe of nature and pure surf. It is the place of pilgrimage of the best local surfers when conditions are good. The respect for the environment is maximum.
Langre
- The spot: One of the most scenic beaches in the region. A spectacular cove in the shape of a crescent moon, embedded under a vertiginous cliff. Access on foot is a marvel.
- The wave: A beach break very exposed that offers great quality waves. It is a fantastic alternative to Somo when you are looking for more power and less people.
- Levels: All levels.Although with swell it can have strong currents.
- Better conditions: Ideal with medium northwesterly swell and southerly or southeasterly winds. Works on all tides.
The western coast: Waves, Picos de Europa and Villas Marineras (seaside villages).
This area is famous for its charming villages and for offering some of the most mythical waves in Cantabria, often with the Picos de Europa as a backdrop.
Los Locos Beach (Suances)
- The spot: If Somo is the capital, Los Locos is the temple. Declared Surf Reserveis one of the most legendary beaches of the Bay of Biscay. It is a spectacular natural amphitheater, surrounded by cliffs.
- The wave: A beach break of the highest quality that, thanks to its orientation and its sandy and rocky bottoms, offers multiple peaks of rights and leftsoften very hollow and powerful. It is a very complete wave.
- Levels: Intermediate and advanced. It is a wave that demands a higher level than Somo. The locals here have a very high level and the main peak is competitive.
- Best conditions: Works with a wide range of swells. Rising mean tide is the magic moment. It withstands the northeast wind (the prevailing wind in summer) very well, which makes it a life-saving option on bad days.
- Vibe: 100% surf vibe. In summer, the town of Suances is full of life and surfing atmosphere. It is a place with a lot of history and surf is breathed in every corner.
Merón Beach (San Vicente de la Barquera)
- The spot: An immense and beautiful beach, located in the heart of the Natural Park of Oyambre. Its great attraction is the scenery: surfing here with views of the town of San Vicente and the Snow-capped Picos de Europa is a mystical experience.
- The wave: A beach break very long with plenty of peaks for everyone. It is very consistent and a great choice for all audiences.
- Levels: All levels. It is ideal for learning and also offers fun waves for advanced surfers.
- Better conditions: It picks up a lot of sea, so it works even with small swells. Ideal in southerly winds.
- Vibe: Family and relaxed atmosphere. It is a very popular spot among van riders and surfers looking to combine surfing and nature.
Oyambre Beach
- The spot: The neighboring Merón, within the same natural park. A spectacularly unspoiled sandy area, surrounded by dunes and meadows.
- The wave: Similar to Merón, it is a beach break very consistent, but perhaps a little more exposed and wild. It offers high quality waves in an unbeatable environment.
- Levels: All levels.
- Best conditions: Works on all tides and picks up the sea very well.
The east coast: Powerful waves and anchovies
This area, which extends into the Basque Country, is steeper and hides some of the most powerful waves in the region.
El Brusco (Noja)
- The spot: El Brusco is the beast of Cantabria. A wave that has gained international fame for its ferocity. It breaks between the beach of Trengandín and Ris, in Noja.
- The wave: It is the beach break more hollow, fast and powerful of the region. A world-class wave that, on its good days, offers deep and perfect tubes on a sandy bottom. It does not forgive mistakes.
- Levels: Expert only. It is a very demanding and dangerous wave. The current is very strong and the wave breaks very violently.
- Best conditions: Needs a powerful swell from the northwest and, crucially, southerly wind (offshore) to show its perfect face. Works best at low to medium tide.
Berria Beach (Santoña)
- The spot: A spectacular and very consistent beach, wedged between Mount Buciero and Mount Brusco, on the outskirts of the anchovy capital, Santoña.
- The wave: A beach break of great quality with peaks scattered all over the beach. It is a very complete wave that works frequently.
- Levels: All levels. The central areas are ideal for learning, while the peaks at the ends can offer more demanding waves.
- Better conditions: It works in all tides and picks up a lot of sea. Ideal in southerly winds.
Practical guide for surfers in Cantabria
Knowing where the waves are is just the beginning. Here you have the instruction manual to understand the Cantabrian Sea and plan your session like a local.
Timing is key: The Cantabrian Sea, season by season
The character of the sea in Cantabria changes drastically with the seasons. Choosing the right season is fundamental for your trip.
Fall (September – November):
It is the golden seasonwithout discussion. The first serious North Atlantic swells, known as the swells of long period, they arrive with force and order. Winds are usually from the south (offshore)The water temperature is still warm in the summer, between 17-19°C, and the ambient temperature is very pleasant. The water temperature still retains the summer heat, between 17-19°C, and the ambient temperature is very pleasant. The atmosphere in the water is pure surfThe summer crowds are gone and the peaks are emptier. This is the time when more serious waves like Santa Marina or El Brusco can wake up. As for the wetsuit, a 3/2 mm is sufficient in September and October, but from November onwards a 4/3 mm.
Winter (December – February): For Experts Only
This is the time of the most most powerful and constant swells. of the year. Giant wave days are frequent, and many spots will be “over”, i.e. too big to surf. The weather is unstable, with Atlantic squalls, however, post-storm days with southerly winds may offer epic and solitary sessions. The water temperature drops to its coldest point, between 11-13°C. In the water you will only find the most dedicated; it’s time to look for sheltered spots like El Sardinero or, if you are an expert, challenge the most serious waves. The wetsuit is key: it is essential to wear a 5/4 mm, sealed, with booties, gloves and cap..
Spring (March – May): Transition Season
During the spring, the strength of winter is gone, but good swells can still arrive. It is a time very inconsistentYou can have a week of incredible waves followed by a week of rough seas. The wind is also very variable, because although onshore winds are starting to appear, there are still many windows of south wind. The water is still cold, especially in March and April, hovering around 12-15°C. With the beaches starting to wake up, it is a good time for intermediate surfers looking for fun waves without the danger of winter. A 4/3 mm is the safest neoprene bet for the whole season.
Summer (June – August): Ideal for Initiation
Summer is the ideal time to learnThe swells are less frequent and weaker, with smaller and gentler waves. Swells are less frequent and weaker, generated by the wind ( windswell). The great enemy of this season is the northeast windThe wind usually enters at noon and “blows” most beaches. This makes the spots that withstand this wind, such as Los Locosbecome very popular. The water temperature reaches its maximum (20-22°C) and the beaches are crowded with bathers and surf schools, so it is essential to respect the bathing areas. A shorty wetsuit or a 2/2 mm is enough, and on the hottest days you can surf in a swimsuit.
Practical tips for your Surftrip to Cantabria
Interpreting the Cantabrian Sea
- Swell: The ideal direction for most spots is Northwest (NW). A swell from the north (N) also works well. Note the periodLong period (>10 seconds) indicates more powerful and orderly waves.
- Wind: The dream wind is the South (S) or Southwest (SW)which is offshore (terral) along most of the coast. The wind Northeast (NE) is the worst enemy of the summer, an onshore wind onshore (offshore) wind that spoils the waves.
- Tides: The Bay of Biscay has spring tideswith big differences between high and low tide. The tide changes everything. Most of the beach breaks (Somo, Merón) work best at mid-tide at rising mid-tide. The point breaks or more specific spots may have a very specific tidal window.
The water code
- The Cantabrian vibe: The vibe on the water in Cantabria is generally, more relaxed and friendly than in other parts of Europe. The immensity of beaches like Somo or Merón helps to disperse people.
- Universal rules: The same rules as always apply: respect the priority (the surfer closest to the peak), don’t “jump” waves (no drop in), and paddle back to the peak from the sides, not where people are surfing.
- Respect the peak: In quality spots like Los Locos, Santa Marina or El Brusco, the local level is high. Don’t go to the main peak if you don’t have the level. Be humble, observe, wait your turn and greets you as you enter. A “Good morning!” or a “Hello!” always helps.
- Respect the beginner: On beaches like Somo, be patient. It is full of people learning. If you are an advanced surfer, look for a peak with less people and leave space for the schools.
Equipment: Rental, purchase and repairs
- Rental: Somo is the rental paradise. You will find dozens of stores and schools with a huge offer of boards (softboards, evolutionary, shortboards) and wetsuits. There are also good options in Suances and San Vicente de la Barquera.
- Bring your equipment: If you are intermediate or advanced, bring your board. A 4/3 mm is the most versatile wetsuit of the year, covering spring, autumn and even mild winters.
- Repairs: In the main towns (Somo, Santander, Suances) you will find repair shops (ding repair) that will fix any touch on your board quickly.
Learning from the best: Surf Schools and Surf Camps in Cantabria
Cantabria is one of the best places in Spain to start surfing or to improve your technique. Choosing the right surf school is key to progress, so investing in quality surf lessons is always the best decision. The epicenter of learning is Somo, an ideal “campus” to live an unforgettable surf camp experience.
Somo: The cradle of education
Somo beach and its neighbor Loredo are the heart of the surf camp industry in Spain. And at the center of this story is a real institution: the Cantabria Surf School. Founded in 1991 by David “Capi” García holds the title of being the first official surf school in Spain. Their decades of experience is unmatched and their contribution to professionalize teaching and create the vibrant local surf culture is enormous. They offer a full range of courses for all levelsfrom beginners to advanced, and its famous surf camps, from the surf camps create an atmosphere of total immersion, perfect for traveling alone and meeting people.
How to choose a school in Somo and Loredo
The Cantabrian Surf School is the pioneer, but the offer in Somo and Loredo is literally overwhelming, with dozens of schools on the beach. This competition is a great advantage for the student, as it raises the overall quality. You will find schools for all tastes: more focused on children, on competition, or specialized in longboard. When choosing, it is crucial to make a good decision: always look for schools with qualified instructors (by the Spanish Surfing Federation or regional federations) and that work with small groups. This is essential, as it guarantees a personalized, safe and effective teaching, allowing you to take advantage of every minute in the water.
Education poles on the west coast
If your base camp is in the western part of Cantabria, you do not need to travel. The Suances and San Vicente “Polos de Enseñanza”. are also of exceptional quality. In the Los Locos Beach (Suances)On the other hand, you will find fantastic schools, perhaps more oriented to an intermediate or improvement level, given the greater power of the wave. On the other hand, the Playa de Merón (San Vicente de la Barquera) is another idyllic place for initiation, with plenty of space and the advantage of learning in the heart of a natural park with spectacular views.
Beyond the shore: Dive into the Cantabrian experience
A surf trip to Cantabria becomes an unforgettable cultural and gastronomic experience. The motto “Cantabria Infinita” is real: the plans out of the water are unlimited.
Gastronomy: The taste of the sea and the mountains
Cantabrian cuisine is honest, powerful and based on a product of exceptional quality.
The religion of rabas and vermouth
- The appetizer of the weekend in Cantabria is sacred, and it has a name of its own: rabas. They are not just fried squid; they are strips of squid (or, more popularly, squid strips). magano or peludín) battered and fried. They are tender on the inside, crispy on the outside and absolutely addictive.
The Ritual: They are drunk on Saturday or Sunday at noon, accompanied by a vermouth solera or a beer. The epicenter of this ritual in Santander is the Cañadío Square and the surrounding streets, which are filled with people enjoying this delicacy.
Treasures from the sea: Anchovies from Santoña and fresh fish
- Anchovies from Santoña: Don’t try some anchovies in Cantabria without making sure they are “from Santoña”. This coastal town is the world capital of salted anchovies. They are a gourmet product, cleaned by hand, with a meaty texture and a perfect salt point that has nothing to do with industrial anchovies.
- Bonito and Fish of the Day: In fishing villages such as San Vicente de la Barquera, Comillas or Castro Urdiales, ask for the fish of the day grilled or barbecued. In summer, the coastal tuna (albacore tuna) (white tuna) is the king, and it is prepared with onions or grilled.
Spoon dishes: The fuel of the mountains
- Cocido Montañés: It is the Cantabrian stew dish par excellence (together with cocido lebaniego, from the Picos de Europa). Unlike other stews, no chickpeas. Its basis is the white beans slowly cooked with collard greens and the compango (chorizo, black pudding, bacon and ribs). It is a powerful dish, ideal to replenish your strength after a winter surfing session.
Sweets: Sobaos and Quesada
- You can’t leave Cantabria without trying its two star desserts. The Sobao PasiegoSobao Pasiego, originally from the Pasiegos Valleys, is a dense sponge cake, incredibly juicy thanks to the thanks to the large amount of butter it contains.
- The Pasiega Cheese is another unique dessert. It’s not a cheesecake as you know it; it’s more like a dense pudding made from fresh cow’s cheese, sugar, butter and cinnamon.
Markets: The product at origin
- To see the product in all its splendor, visit the Market of Hope in Santander. It is a spectacular iron and glass building, where you will see the stalls of fresh fish brought directly from the fish market, Tudanca beef and vegetables from the Cantabrian orchards.
Getting around Cantabria: Connecting beaches and valleys
Getting around Cantabria is easy, but each option has its advantages.
By car: The surfer’s choice
- It is the most flexible option and almost essential for a surftrip. It allows you to hunt the best waves, explore remote beaches and move with your boards.
- The tracks: The Cantabrian Highway (A-8) crosses the entire region from east to west free of charge (unlike the Basque Country). The N-634 is the parallel national road, slower but with beautiful landscapes. The roads that go down to the interior valleys (towards Potes or the Valles Pasiegos) are mountain roads and require a more relaxed driving.
By public transportation
- Buses (ALSA): The ALSA company connects Santander with almost all the towns in the region, including the main surf spots such as Somo, Suances, San Vicente or Santoña (Berria). Frequencies are good.
- FEVE (Tren de Vía Estrecha): The former FEVE (now part of Cercanías Renfe) has a line that runs along the coast, but it is considerably slower than the bus. It can be an option to move between Santander and some towns, but it is not the most practical for surfing.
- The “Pedreñera” (Lanchas Los Reginas): This is the star transport for surfers staying in Santander. This small boat crosses the bay from the center of Santander to Somo in about 20 minutes. It is a beautiful trip, practical (you can take your board with you) and a total local experience.
By bike
- Cantabria is developing its network of “bidegorris” (bicycle lanes).. There is a spectacular bike path that connects Santander with Cabárceno Park. The area of Somo and Loredo is very flat and ideal for cycling between the beach and the accommodation.
Where to stay
The accommodation offer in Cantabria is enormous and adapts to all budgets, from the “backpacker” surfer to the one looking for a rural luxury experience.
Surf houses and hostels (Somo, Loredo and Suances)
- It is the ideal option for traveling alone or with friends and meet people. The epicenter is undoubtedly, Somo and Loredo. You will find a very high concentration of surf camps and surf houses that offer packages of accommodation and lessons. The atmosphere is young, international and 100% surfers. Suances also has a great offer in summer.
Rural inns and mountain manor houses
- This is the Cantabrian “premium” lodging experience.. They are old stone and wood houses, restored with exquisite taste, offering an incomparable experience of tranquility and authenticity. They are ideal for couples or families looking to disconnect after the beach. You will find them in the inland villages, a short distance from the coast.
Hotels and pensions
- Santander offers the widest variety of urban hotels. Staying in the capital allows you to enjoy the city life and cross by boat to Somo for surfing.
- Seafaring towns such as San Vicente, Comillas or Suances have a wide range of charming hotels and family pensions.
Campsites (Oyambre, Somo, Liencres)
- Cantabria is a first class camping destination. The Oyambre Campsite is legendary, located in the middle of the natural park and a stone’s throw from the beach. The Somo and Loredo campsites are perfect for a surfing base camp, and the one in Liencres puts you in the middle of nature. They are the favorite option for those who travel by car. camper van.
Must-visits in Cantabria: Culture and unique landscapes
Cantabria is an open-air museum. On days without waves (or after them) the cultural offer is overwhelming.
Santander: The elegant capital overlooking the sea
Santander is one of the most elegant cities in the north. Its life revolves around its spectacular bay.
Botín Center
It is the new icon of the city. A impressive art center designed by Renzo Piano that “flies” over the bay. Its exhibits are first class and its walkways offer unique views.
Magdalena Peninsula
It is the great park of the city. An incredible place to stroll, with forests, cliffs and the Magdalena Palace (former summer residence of the kings) on its summit.
The Sardinero and the Paseo Marítimo
Stroll along the promenade of El Sardinero, admire the Gran Casino and feel the glamour of the “Belle Époque” that defined the city.
A trip to prehistoric times: Altamira and the Castle
Altamira Museum (Santillana del Mar)
The original cave of Altamira is the “Sistine Chapel of cave art”. “Sistine Chapel of cave art”.It is not open to the general public for conservation purposes. The essential visit is to the Neocave Museum of Altamira, a spectacular exact and spectacular replica that allows you to experience the cave as it was, with its famous polychrome bison. It is a visit that leaves you speechless.
Caves of El Castillo (Puente Viesgo)
If you want to enter a real cave with prehistoric art, this is one of the best options in the world. Here you will find some of the oldest paintings of mankind (more than 40,000 years old).
Seafaring villages: A fairy-tale trio
Santillana del Mar
Known as “the town of the three lies” (it is neither holy, nor is it flat, nor does it have a sea), it is one of the best preserved medieval towns in Europe. best preserved medieval villages in Europe. Strolling through its cobblestone streets, among stone houses and flower balconies, is like traveling back in time.
Comillas
A stately and surprising villa. Here you will find “El Capricho”.one of the few works of Antoni Gaudí outside Catalonia, a fairytale palace. Next to it, the Pontifical Universityan imposing neo-Gothic building.
San Vicente de la Barquera
A fishing village with one of the most famous pictures of Cantabria. Its very long La Maza Bridgeits gothic church on the top and the castle, all of this with the Picos de Europa as a backdrop, is an image you will not forget.
Experiences for everyone: tailor-made plans
Cantabria is a generous land that offers much more than waves. It is a destination that adapts to any type of traveler, budget and company. Whether you are traveling on a budget, looking for the perfect family excursion or want to try other disciplines in the water, here you will find a plan that will connect you even more with the essence of the region.
Low cost plans for surfers on a tight budget
Traveling as a surfer often means adjusting your budget to extend your stay. In Cantabria, enjoying unforgettable experiences without spending too much is surprisingly easy.
- Free Coastal Hiking: Walk along the Coastalespecially the stretch between Arnía and Liencres. It is a spectacular route and perfect for a day without waves, with a Jurassic landscape of cliffs and “urros” (sharp rocks) sculpted by the sea.
- The Ritual of the Rabas: The Sunday aperitif is sacred in Cantabria. A plate of rabas (fried calamari) with a vermouth is a complete, inexpensive meal and the best way to immerse yourself in Cantabrian social life.
- Crossing the Bay in “Pedreñera”: If you are staying in Santander, the boat to Somo (the “Pedreñera”) is your best ally. It is a cheap and practical transport to take your board to the waves, and it is also a beautiful boat trip around the bay.
Plans with children and families
If you are traveling with your family, Cantabria is a winning destination. The days without waves or the afternoons after surfing are full of adventures for the little ones.
- Cabárceno Nature Park: The star family plan in Cantabria. It is not a zoo, but a huge natural park in a former mine. Hundreds of animals (elephants, bears, giraffes, etc.) live in semi-freedom in gigantic enclosures. It is traveled by car and its spectacular cable car offers unique views of the animals and the karst landscape.
- Cantabrian Maritime Museum (Santander): A perfect plan for a rainy day, focused on man’s relationship with the sea. Children are fascinated by its large aquariums recreating the coastal habitats and the impressive impressive whale skeleton hanging from the ceiling.
Other water sports (SUP, Kitesurfing, Sailing)
The Bay of Biscay is not only for surfing. The days of rough or windy seas open the door to other exciting disciplines.
- Stand Up Paddle (SUP): For calm days, SUP is the perfect substitute. The Santander Bay offers calm waters for a relaxing stroll, while the San Vicente de la Barquera San Vicente de la Barquera estuary offers a mystical experience, paddling with views of the town and the Picos de Europa.
- Kitesurfing: The northeast wind of summer, the surfer’s enemy, is ideal for kiting. The Valdearenas Beach (Liencres) becomes the spot of reference when it blows hard. The bay of Santander is also a popular and safe area to learn.
- Sailing: Santander is a city with an immense sailing and regatta tradition. You can hire from a sea baptism to complete courses, or simply enjoy the spectacle of hundreds of sails in the bay during the weekend.
Nature and Getaways: The Sea-Mountain Marriage
The great secret of Cantabria, what makes it a truly unique surfing destination in the world, is its geography of extreme contrasts. It’s a land where the soul is divided in two: the coast (the marina), salty, energetic and open to the world, and the inland (the mountain), green, silent and anchored in tradition.
This “marriage” between the sea and the mountains is not just a tourist slogan; it is the perfect plan for your trip. It is the antidote for a day of sea dish, the balm for tired paddling muscles and the opportunity to discover that “Cantabria Infinita” begins right where the waves end. In little more than an hour, you can exchange your wetsuit for hiking boots and the roar of the Bay of Biscay for the silence of an ancient forest.
Picos de Europa: The neighboring giant
Don’t be fooled by the green meadows of the coast: behind San Vicente de la Barquera rises a limestone rock wall of more than 2,500 meters. These are the Picos de EuropaThe first National Park in Spain and one of the most spectacular mountain formations on the continent. Surfing in the morning with views of its snowy peaks in winter is an experience that only Cantabria can offer you.
The Fuente Dé cable car
It is the essential one-day getaway. The trip by car is already an adventure, going through the spectacular La Hermida GorgeA 20 km canyon that takes you into the Liébana Valley. When you reach Fuente Dé, an impressive glacial cirque awaits you. The cable car is a work of engineering that takes your breath away: in only 4 minutes, it saves a vertical drop of 750 meters, “hanging” over the emptiness.
The Upper Station (El Cable)
When you get out of the cabin, the scenery is otherworldly. You are in the Cable ViewpointThe view is breathtaking, above the clouds, with the lunar landscape of the high mountains at your feet. From here, you can make simple and spectacular hiking routes through the Ports of ÁlivaThe views from the mountain passes, high meadows surrounded by peaks, or simply enjoy the views that will make you feel tiny.
Potes
It is the neuralgic capital of the Picos de Europa. A postcard village, built in stone, with medieval bridges that cross the Deva river and the imposing Infantado Tower. Potes is the perfect place to immerse yourself in mountain gastronomy: it is the birthplace of the lebaniego stew (a potent mixture of chickpeas, meats and “stuffing”), the cheeses of the area (like the Picón Bejes-Tresviso cheese) and the tradition of orujowhich is distilled in stills throughout the valley and which celebrates its own festival in November.
Coastal natural parks (Liencres, Oyambre and Santoña)
You don’t need to drive an hour inland to find nature in its purest form. The surf spots themselves are located in some of the most important protected natural areas of the coast.
Liencres Dunes Natural Park
Where you surf in Canallave and Valdearenas, you are in an ecological treasure. This park is home to one of the dune systems of the Cantabrian Sea, a fine sandy seaa sea of fine sand that goes inland, fixed by an extensive pine pine forest. extensive stone pine forest. The perfect plan for a sunny day is to walk barefoot from the forest, through the dunes and onto the wild beach. The sunsets from here are on another level.
Oyambre Natural Park
This is the background landscape when surfing in Oyambre and Merón. This park is the perfect example of the Cantabrian coastal ecosystem: it combines wild beaches, an impressive system of dunes, cliffs and the Rabia estuaryThe estuary creates a marshland full of life. It is a paradise for hiking, connecting its beaches through trails that wind through meadows of intense green.
Santoña, Victoria and Joyel Marshes Natural Park
Right next to Berria beach is one of the most important wetlands in Europe. The Santoña Marshes are one of the crucial stopover (and a real “service area”) for thousands of migratory birds that travel between northern Europe and Africa. It is a site of international importance (RAMSAR) and a paradise for bird watching, especially in winter. For a spectacular route, go around the Mount Buciero (the mountain that protects Santoña) on foot, visiting its cliffs and the Faro del Caballo lighthouse.
Inland valleys (Valle de Pas, Valle de Cabuérniga)
For an immersion in the deepest, rural and ethnographic Cantabria, you must go into its valleys.
The Pasiegos Valleys
It is the heart of Cantabria’s livestock farming tradition and the place where a unique landscape and culture was forged: the Pasiega. As you enter the landscape, the landscape is transformed into a infinite mosaic of green meadowsseparated by thousands of stone walls. The picture is completed with the “cabañas pasiegas”.The “muda” (a short transhumance) was practiced by the herdsmen, who moved with their families and their cows from one herd to another to take advantage of the pasture. Visit villages such as Liérganes (officially one of the most beautiful villages in Spain) or Vega de Pas is to understand where the sobaos and sobaos and quesadasthe most famous desserts of the region, made with butter and cheese from their cows.
Cabuérniga Valley
It is another trip back in time. A more wooded and secluded valley, which serves as the entrance to the great natural reserve of Saja-Besaya. It is famous for its mountain mansions of stone and wood, with its balconies (solanas) full of flowers. The village of Barcena MayorA visit to the town, a Historic-Artistic Monument, is a must. It is a pedestrian village, perfectly preserved, where it seems that time has not passed. It is the ideal place to enjoy the hearty mountain food, such as a good mountain stew or venison stew.
Leisure and nightlife in Cantabria
The energy that lives in the waves during the day does not disappear at sunset in Cantabria; it simply transforms. When the sun hides behind the cliffs, life flows from the beaches to the urban centers and villages. The Cantabrian night is, in general, lively, social and very focused on gastronomy.. Unlike other destinations, here the party does not start in a discotheque, but at the bar, with the ritual of the “tapeo” and the vermouth, which often extends until the “first drink”. It is a culture of socializing in the street, of going from one place to another.
The region offers an atmosphere to suit all tastes: from the absolute tranquility of a fishing village to the vibrant and full urban nightlife that only a capital city like Santander can offer. Santander can offer.
Santander: The epicenter of Cantabrian nightlife
Santander is, without a doubt, the nightlife capital of the region. It offers the greatest variety of atmospheres, from the most popular hustle and bustle to the most alternative corner or the most elegant place. The night here is divided into very well defined areas:
Cañadío Square: The heart of the festival
It is the great meeting point Santander, the undisputed heart of the party. It is a pedestrian square surrounded by small bars, and its magic resides in the fact that the party is not inside, but outside. As the night progresses, especially on weekends or any summer day, the square becomes a veritable “nightclub”. human tide of people socializing. The bars, many of which are tiny, bring out the portable bars to the street to serve drinks and “minis” (liter glasses). The atmosphere is bustling, intergenerational at first and progressively younger as midnight approaches. It is the perfect place to start, have the first drinks and catch the energy of the city.
Río de la Pila: The alternative slope
A few minutes from Cañadío, the slope of Rio de la Pila hill and its and its surrounding streets are the alternative and bohemian territory of the city. If you are looking for a less conventional atmosphere, this is your place. The street is full of “garitos” (small bars) with a very marked identity: you will find bars from classic rock, indie music venues, pubs with a heavy metal ambiance and small electronic music clubs. The atmosphere is more rogue, the music is the protagonist and the party goes on until well into the early hours of the morning. It is, for many, the next natural step after Cañadío begins to empty.
The Sardinero: elegant nights with sea views
The night in El Sardinero has a completely different character: it is seasonal (mainly in summer) and more elegant. seasonal (mainly in summer) and more elegant.. Linked to the historical glamour of the beach and the Grand Casino, this area offers sophisticated terraces, cocktail lounges and trendy bars overlooking the sea. The atmosphere is quieter, ideal for an elaborate drink in a “posh” or more elegant setting. Here you will find some of the best known clubs in the city, perfect for those looking for a more classic clubbing plan.
Surfing environment (Somo and Suances)
Outside the capital, the nightlife is intrinsically linked to the lifestyle of the coast. The atmosphere is much more informal and has two very different speeds: the tranquility of Somo and the party of Suances.
Somo: The temple of “Après-Surf”.
The nightlife in Somo is the “après-surf at its best. Don’t come here looking to party out of control. The plan is relaxed, authentic and 100% surfing. The “night” consists of getting out of the water at dusk, taking off your wetsuit and going straight in, in flip-flops and a sweatshirtto one of the terraces or surf bars that populate the town. It is the time to have a cold post-surf beer, eat a good burger, discuss the waves of the day with friends and plan the sunrise session. It is a community atmosphere, quiet and familiar, where surfing permeates everything.
Suances: The coastal summer party
Suances, in summer, is the other side of the coin. If Somo is the calm, Suances is the storm. During the months of July and August, the village explodes with life and becomes the epicenter of the coastal party for a younger audience. The action is concentrated on the lower zone, the port and the beachThe city is full of music bars, pubs and small discotheques, one next to the other. The music echoes in the street, the terraces are crowded and the ambiance is 100% summer and festiveattracting people from all over the region.
The footprint of “La Tierruca
We have reached the end of this journey through Cantabria. If you have come this far, you not only know its beaches, but you understand its soul. A surf trip to “La Tierruca” is an experience that restarts you. It starts with the search for waves, but it catches you with the kindness of its people, with the resounding taste of its gastronomy and with a landscape that forces you to stop and breathe.
It is the taste of salt and butter. It is the feeling of surfing in a wild place in the morning and strolling through a medieval village in the afternoon. It is the view of the Picos de Europa from the water, a constant reminder that here, the sea and the mountains are two sides of the same coin.
You will discover a veteran surf culture, proud of its roots but incredibly welcoming, where the first school in Spain has marked a character of sharing the passion. Cantabria will challenge you with powerful waves like Los Locos and welcome you with the nobility of Somo. It will feed your body with cocido and rabas, and your spirit with sunsets in Liencres and prehistoric art in millenary caves.
So, now it’s your turn. Use this guide as a map, but allow yourself the luxury of getting lost. Talk to the locals, ask where to eat the best rabas, take that mountain road that you don’t know where it leads to. Because the real magic of Cantabria is not in following an itinerary, but in letting its infinite character impregnate you. Come looking for waves and you’ll find so much more: a land with soul, a vibrant culture and, if you’re lucky, a piece of yourself you didn’t know you were looking for. We hope your future sessions here will be epic and your memories indelible.
And if this adventure ignites your thirst for exploration, remember that the world is full of undiscovered waves and that you can always get inspired with the best surf guides from many other amazing cities and destinations.
See you soon!
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